MERCEDES-BENZ NEWYORK FASHION WEEK - AW 2015-16

New York Fashion Week - Ozanhan Kayaoglu - AW 15/16

The collection was inspired by Foucault’s book “Discipline and Punishment”. In the book, he challenges the idea that power is wielded by people or groups by way of “episodic” or “sovereign” acts of domination or coercion, seeing it instead as dispersed and pervasive. “Power is everywhere” and “comes from everywhere,” so in this sense, it is neither an agency nor a structure (Foucault 1998: 63). Instead, it is a kind of “meta-power” or “regime of truth” that pervades society, and which is in constant flux and negotiation. Foucault uses the term “power/knowledge” to signify that power is constituted through accepted forms of knowledge and scientific understanding. For The Panopticon Prison Collection, I investigated the disciplinary power in the society, and its effects on our lives.

Foucault explains the concepts of discipline and punishment over the architecture of Panopticon Prison. After my investigation about the subject, I recognized that the created social order has never been in an impartial position. In another words, it was a disciplinary hierarchy. I found myself in the middle of this tremendous subject, which also had roots in my past. The book helped me to understand how we shape the societies and how I was a part of it. The Panopticon Prison Collection based on disciplinary power in societies. This first prison in the world had a perfect form to understand how we start to create others, groups and borders in the societies.

Human rights and equality among people is the essence of my final collection. As an example of civil rights, we can remember the sentence of Martin Luther King “I have a dream”. Unfortunately, we couldn’t comprehend him neither in the past nor today. Civils, activists, writers, philosophers, poets and many other pioneers have been in the prisons. Therefore, the first prison in the world had an important sense for me. In the Panopticon Prison, my first impressive discovery was the old and rusty places of the prison. I experimented and developed the technique of dyeing fabrics with old rusty metals. The results were truly art pieces. Obviously the fabrics had mostly rusty color, but I used tie-dye, batik and many other technics to create excellent looks on the fabric. One of the other ways to creating fabric was over dying on the rusty fabrics. This idea let me to paint fabric like an artist paints his/her canvas. British Wools combined with special silk and cotton fabrics. The pieces of collection gets silhouette from the round shape of The Panopticon Prison. The design consists of a circular structure with an “watchtower” at its centre, from which the manager or staff of the institution are able to watch the inmates. My watchtower is the body of woman and fabric rounds all around it with an aesthetic touch. This was the key point to find design details for my collection.

My master degree fashion design diploma project at the Academy of Art University selected to present in AW 15-16 New York Fashion Week. It was the best place to leave a message about my thoughts and design aesthetic. I shared my 6 looks collection in the Mercedes-Benz-New York Fashion Week. After my successful catwalk, I had one more chance to show my collection in the Fiat Fashion Night / Bursa, Turkey. This time, I added 8 more looks, and 14 looks had a bigger picture about human rights and justice for ethnicity in the world.

New York Fashion Week - Ozanhan Kayaoglu - AW 15/16

New York Fashion Week - Ozanhan Kayaoglu - AW 15/16

New York Fashion Week - Ozanhan Kayaoglu - AW 15/16

New York Fashion Week - Ozanhan Kayaoglu - AW 15/16

New York Fashion Week - Ozanhan Kayaoglu - AW 15/16

New York Fashion Week - Ozanhan Kayaoglu - AW 15/16

New York Fashion Week - Ozanhan Kayaoglu - AW 15/16